Caron International introduces NaturallyCaron.com, an exciting new line of exceptional yarns that bring the lush feel and sophisticated color palette of more expensive yarns to value-conscious knitters and crocheters. Stitchers can also find a wealth of inspiration at NaturallyCaron.com, a robust online destination unlike existing yarn-related websites. NaturallyCaron.com—the yarns, the web, the experience.
The Yarns
The first two yarns in the NaturallyCaron.com line are Country and Spa.
Country is a sumptuous merino blend, multi-ply yarn that combines the unparalleled softness and drape of a super-fine acrylic with the body and warmth of a fine merino wool. See the whole Country color palette.
Spa is a silky bamboo blend, multi-ply yarn that offers knitters and crocheters lustrous finish and ultimate drape for all their projects. See the whole Spa color palette.
The Web
At the NaturallyCaron.com website, knitters and crocheters will find a wealth of inspiration that will offer guidance in fashion and color selection, unparalleled free projects and an exciting online yarn community.
Virtual Fashion Shows
NaturallyCaron.com will present virtual fashion shows, narrated by Caron’s Director of Fashion and Design Cari Clement. These virtual fashion shows will give the consumer an insider’s look at today’s fashion and future trends in knitwear.
Free Project Boutique
NaturallyCaron.com will present a growing archive of knit and crochet projects from well known industry designers that will feature detailed photography, stitch videos, color suggestions and more.
Consumer Gallery, Blogs and Podcasts
NaturallyCaron.com will serve up a consumer gallery of projects and photos created by knitters and crocheters from across the country. Plus, the site will feature a fresh blog from Cari Clement based on her fashion and design experience. And NaturallyCaron.com will broadcast regular podcasts on timely and entertaining trends in yarn.
Caron Connections E-Newsletter
Knitters and crocheters can stay in touch with what’s new at NaturallyCaron.com through our popular e-newsletter Caron Connections. The e-newsletter is brimming with new projects, product information, contests and special events.
The Experience
This innovative approach of marketing the yarn, the web, and the experience “all-as-one” creates limitless opportunities to enhance the consumer’s enjoyment of NaturallyCaron.com branded yarns. This experience will take our consumer to another level of enjoyment and fulfillment. For a look into the future of yarn experience, check out NaturallyCaron.com.
How do I care for my completed project made from the Spa yarn?
As I understand the graphics, no washer, no dryer, no iron.
Thank you.
Hi, Kathy, It should be 3″. I think the diagram shows the full length of the collar, but, you’re right. It should show just the length for the one side. I’ll get our tech editor to make the change to the drawing and we’ll re-post. Thanks for letting us know!
Is there a pattern available for “little arches” socks in kids size?
Love the design but would like to make it for a child rather than an adult.
Thanks,
Janice
Sorry for delay in replying – have been out straight at a trade show.
At the moment, we don’t have these in kids sizes, but thanks so much for the suggestion. Good idea. We’ll see what we can do.
Cari
I am starting the Alpharetta Hoddie Vest – just love it! I have done a proper gauge, but when I cast on the required stitches to begin my width is 25″ – way more than the 20″ that the pattern shows. I even went down to a size #5 needle. Are you sure the pattern is correct?? I’m not a loose knitter. Before I continue I’d like your input. Thank you.
Hi, Nancy. The gauge on the pattern is correct and the number of stitches to cast on for the back is correct (assuming you’re knitting the second size), (102 sts/5=20.4), so I’m not sure what’s happening. You are using Spa, not Country, right? I get a 5.25 sts to the inch gauge using a #6 needle (I tend to be a somewhat tight knitter, though). Also, what Kristin didn’t write in is that your cast-on should be a provisional cast-on, so you can pick up the stitches of the back when you’re done with the bodice. I’ll be sure the pattern is changed – also to show sizing. Hope this helps.
Cari
Hi, Ellen,
Are you using the printed pattern or the online pattern? There was one mistake in the printed pattern, which is corrected online, if that’s where you’re stuck. The online pattern for this is under the Pattern Boutique, Store Project Sheets. Here’s the direct link: http://www.naturallycaron.com/projects/waikiki/waikiki_1.html. Hope this helps,
Cari
advertisement in Crochet march 2010 magazine on page 9 -
how do I get pattern for wrap/shawl – right side of page
facing in multicolor and where in denver/ suburbs do I get
your yarn? thank you, Kathy Wietharn
Hi, Kathy,
All projects in the ad are on http://www.naturallycaron.com. I believe the project you’re referring to is the Woodcliff Throw. You could wear it as a shawl, but it’s listed on the website as a throw. Here’s a link to the pattern: http://www.naturallycaron.com/projects/woodcliff/woodcliff_1.html
The yarn is Spa and it can be found in all Jo-Ann Superstores, all Michaels stores and all Hobby Lobby stores.
Have fun with it!
Cari
I love the yarn called SPA. I am knitting a sweater with it. You have a series of yarn called
Country that also uses bamboo. The colors are so rich looking. I partially like the color
Peacock. Are you going to make the yarn in SPA? I cannot wear anything that has wool in it.
so I really would like that color in Acrylic and bamboo.
Thank you
Jackie Campbell
Jackie1090@verizon.net
Hi, Jackie,
Yes, Spa has turned out to be a real winner. We have new colors planned, but nothing available at the moment. I feel now that the yarns need to have different colors, though. If it’s the color you’re really after, we have a very similar, relatively new color in Simply Soft: Ocean. It’s really soft, but it doesn’t have a bamboo content. BTW, Country doesn’t contain any bamboo, just microdenier acrylic and merino wool.
Hope this helps and thanks for the positive comments on Spa!
Cari
Hi, Jackie,
Sorry for the delayed reply – have been on the road since the Rwanda trip. Unfortunately, we will not be making Spa in a heavier weight, as it’s really a summer-type yarn or baby yarn – BUT since you like the Peacock color so much, the color Ocean in Simply Soft is the same as the Peacock in Country. You should be able to find Ocean in Jo-Ann’s or AC Moore – and certainly on ShopCaron.com.
Cari
I purchased the Country yarn in antique rose on sale at Hobby Lobby. Sorry I believe that is the name of the color. I cannot find my labels right now. The color is a salmon/rose shade. I really like this color but have been unable to find any more skeins at either Hobby Lobby or Michael’s. Has this color been discontinued?
I am really happy to find a yarn with natural fibers that is easy to use and reasonably priced. Thanks to Caron and the designers.
Julie, you can purchase Sunset in Country at http://www.shopcaron.com. There are only a few stores that carry this color, unfortunately.
Cari
Sorry – the yarn name could be Renaissance Rose rather than Sunset.
Mary, sent you a revised pattern with the trCl clarified by our tech editor. Pattern is correct, but the trCl is tricky. Hope this works for you,
Cari
I’ll repeat Julie Anther’s question at the top of the blog (how do you care for Spa yard?) and add Country to that list. The fiber content is clearly marked on both, but no care instructions.
Hi, Paula,
So not to have to translate into multiple languages, most yarn companies use the international care symbols, which are printed on both the Spa and Country label. They are also printed on the inside of each label, but just in English. To learn more about the care symbols, here’s a link that explains it: http://www.skeinlane.com/knittingresources/care/caresymbols.htm. Hope this helps.
Cari
I am making the la paloma wrap and am trying to figure out how to join the pieces.
the insructions to me are confusing and i dont know exactly what to do. I am a beginer in crochet. so that may explain why i am not making any progess.the instruction have me to instead of a chain 7 to do a chain 3 slip stitch in next chain seven and chain a chain 3
Hi, Barb,
Yes, you do a chain 3, then join to the ch7 space of the adjacent motif with a slip stitch, then chain 3 more = 7 sts. Just continue in this way, but note the 6-prong Berry Frappe “stars” that unite each of the motifs. While this is not a beginner pattern, you’ve done the first motif, so once you get the joining, you should be home free. Good job!
Cari
Just a thank you to Caron for responding to my complaint letter. I notified them that I was displeased with finding knots in a skein of yarn I was using and they were kind enough to send me three new skeins. Above and beyond is always a way to keep customers happy. Thanks, Caron
Hello,
Please help me with the stitch ssk (decrease) that is used in the Cielo Shrug. I do not know how to return sts to left-hand needle in a turned position.
I am looking forward to making the shrug to wear over a black sleeveless sheith dress.
Thank You,
Pauline Tannock
HI, Pauline,
You would insert your needle from the back of the second stitch into the first stitch, then slip them both onto the LH needle. That would twist them so you can work the decrease.
Hope this helps.
Cari
Why is it always so hard to find the end of the yarn on the inside of the ball? Always very frustrating to get the ball started from the inside – usually end up rewinding the whole thing and having to sort through knots.
Thanks,
Martha
Yes, this can be a hassle, but it’s just the way ball and skein-winding equipment works. Everyone uses the same technology, so we all have to hunt for the center. What I do for balled yarn that seems to allow me to find the end more easily is to remove the label and kind-of “fluff up” the ball, pressing it together to look like a donut-shape. When the yarn in the center is looser, it’s easier to dig in there to find the end. Pull skeins are not as easy because they’re wound a bit tighter, but you can use the same method on those. Hope this helps.
Cari
I love both Spa & Country. They are actually my favorite yarns to work with. The clean, modern colors are beautiful and I love the softness and sheen.
My concern is that they have recently stopped stocking these yarns at the store I shop. I was wondering if this is just the store’s choice (though it seemed to sell well), or if Spa & Country are being discontinued.
I really hope not!
~Rachel
You can find both Spa and Country in all Michaels, Jo-Ann, AC Moore, Hobby Lobby and many independent craft chains, so not to worry – it’s not going anywhere. And if you need colors or those stores aren’t near you, we have a new online store, opening soon!
Cari
I have a question on the Cielo Shrug – how many skiens are needed?
It takes two skeins to make any size. We have a policy of using just ounces needed for all our patterns, mostly because other Caron yarns come in different size skeins, so listing ounces is the best way for people to use the pattern for any size skein they purchase. Hope this helps!
I love the pattern for the Aqua Blue Scarf but I am having difficulty with the Front and Back crossover stitches. Is there a video I can watch to see how to do these stitches. I want to make this scarf as gifts for Christmas and I a an advanced crocheter but seem to be having difficulty with this stitch. Can someone help me with this problem.
Nora
Can you give us more specifics on what you’re having trouble with in the Front and Back crossover sts? Would a chart help? I’m afraid we don’t have a video on this.
Hi Cari,
I still have sweater machine. I use few times and then put it away because three small kids get in my way but now they are all growing up and live on thier own. So I start get my sweater machine back and I had to learn all over again. Now I remeber some rules and intructions.
I became grandmother and I would love to make something for my grand daughter. I found on this website and I would love to try but it seem that this only for hand knitting. I dont know how to use hand knit. I was hoping you can change insturction for the knitting machine.
it was by your design: Child’s vest.
http://www.caron.com/projects/q/q_hooded_vest.pdf
Lourdes
Cari,
I mean like hand knit to knit machine. I don’t understand the hand knit. I was hope if you able to change from hand knit to knit machine with this pattern that I would like to make.
Lourdes
Hi, again,
The pattern book that came with your machine has a section on how to convert hand knitting patterns to machine knitting ones, but I suppose it’s something we should put up on bond-america.com. But the pattern you’re interested in uses a very heavy yarn, one that we don’t make any more – and one that won’t work on your machine. So best to use the patterns on the Bond site. I’m sure you’ll find something that will work for you.
Hi, Lourdes,
Great to have you back in knitting machine mode! I don’t have that pattern written for machine knitting, but if you go to this link Bond Buzz archives, you’ll get the Bond Buzz archives where there are loads of patterns for kids’ sweaters. Also to the free patterns section on the bond site. The most recent Buzz had a great rolled-edge child’s pattern that might work for you.
I went to Ventura today to the Micheals store and to the oxnard Jo-Anns.
neither store had ever heard of naturally caron/spa or country.
I was very dissapointed because it was a special trip. I live in Ojai Ca and Ventura Ca is the closest shopping Sally
Hi, Sally,
Sorry for the hassle! All Michaels stores do carry some Spa and Country, so it seems the employees at that store didn’t know their yarn dept. Most Jo-Ann stores carry it too, but there are a few that don’t. Perhaps that was the case at the JA you visited. But you can always get the yarns at buy.caron.com – including the new Spa colors.
Hobby Lobby stores carry Spa and Country, if there are any stores in your area. I believe it would be available online through hobbylobby.com.
Spa and Country are also available from buy.caron.com.
I think I am going insane. I crocheted a simple scarf using the SPA yarn and I did it in stripes with black and a multicolor yarn that included blues/browns/creams. I have tried searching online for the name of that multicolor yarn but it doesn’t seem to exist! I purchased two skeins of it from different Hobby Lobbys. Please tell me that it exists and the name of the “color” if you could.
Jenny
Julie – For the Azani shawl, 5 skeins of the yarn would be needed, equaling 850 meters (180m x 5 skeins). 4 skeins of the yarn you purchased would only be equal to 720 meters (180m x 4). It appears that the difference you are running into is related to yardage. Hope this helps!
There is in fact a small typo on this that we are working on getting corrected on the website:
Shape Sleeve
Inc 1 st each side every 6th (4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 4th) row 12 (2, 8, 8, 6, 6) times, every 8th (6th, 6th, 6th, 6th,
6th) row 3 (15, 12, 12, 13, 13) times; …
I’m doing the r892 curious kitty and i would like to know which color is darker between 0131 vanilla and 4010 cream.
Thank you.
Can you tell me the yarn you’re using and send a photo of the project? I’m not showing anything by that number or project name. Thanks.
I’m in the process of making a scarf for my mom’s birthday and am using the SPA yarn. I know the packaging says it can be machine washed and dried, but I’m worried I’ll do that and it will mess up the whole thing which I have worked EXTREMELY hard on (who doesn’t, right?). So, can it really be machine washed/dried or should I just stick with hand washing, blocking, and drying? I’d like to hear from someone who has done this personally and had no problems with it!
Thanks,
Hannah
I recently purchased a book called sophisticated baby and toddler. I am trying to make hippie girl in the colors stated.
I special ordered the Rose Bisque from Hobby Lobby and it came in in different dye lots. They told me they could not order it again because it is discontinued. Is this true and if so is there anywhere I can purchase 4 for my granddaughter.
Rose Bisque may have been discontinued from Hobby Lobby, but it is available at other stores such as Jo-Ann and from buy.caron.com.
We do not say that Naturally Caron is organic or eco or recycled or all natural and that’s not intended. It means it has a component of natural fiber iin the yarn and it’s a bit higher-end than our other yarns. Caron makes primarily synthetic yarns, so this was a “natural” step out. It also means, “Naturally, Caron.”
Baton Rouge Cropped Jacket
even rows 14-22 are missing from both lace patterns. Please advise.
Beverly, our tech editor is checking on it now. Thanks for spotting this.
I am using SPA silky soft Bamboo Blend for the first time. I’m using a knit cast on an the thread keeps untwisting, very annoying. Do you reccommend a different cast on to solve this problem. I really don’t want to fight this problem
through my my entire project… I already discarded the first yard or so of the yarn as it already seemed untwisted.
Thank for any input. Cindy
Cindy, Spa seems to work differently for every knitter, so it’s must be something with the individual and how he/she uses the yarn. I do a weird knitted cast-on and have never had a problem with Spa – but if I do the same cast-on with roving yarns they come apart. It may be something similar for Spa, at least how you’re doing your cast-on. The twist of the yarn does tend to be a bit loose, but that’s so the hand will remain soft: the tighter the twist, the more softness it loses. I’d try a couple different cast-ons and see what happens with the yarn then.
Cari — I would like to crochet the Copenhagen Jacket, designed by Tammy Hildebrand, in a larger size. The audio fashion show description mentioned that the jacket is sized up to 3X. However, I only see Small, Medium, Large, and X-Large in the instructions.
Are there supplemental instructions for sizes 2X and 3X sizes somewhere else on your website, or is this jacket sized to 3X if collar and front panels are not folded over, but left flat when worn?
Thank you . . . love Caron yarns!
I do most of my yarn buying online. Can you list the different weights of your yarns. I’ll then be able to order with confidence the exact right yarn for my projects. Thanks.
Debi, all the yarn weights are listed on all the Caron, NaturallyCaron.com and buy.caron.com pages, so I’m not sure what you mean. The symbol “4″ means medium weight. For more info on yarn weight symbols, you can go to the Craft Yarn Council site. Hope this helps.
I need help! I do not know where to post this I am new to this site. I got a free pattern called “Denver Hat” I really love the style and thought it would be fun to knit. I am an accomplished knitter, but for the life of me I can not figure this pattern out. I am at the point where one ear flap is finished, then for the next ear flap the pattern calls for the next ear flap to be knitted on the same needle and to start it you are to cast on one stitch. I can not figure this step out. I also see later in the pattern it call for casting on stitches again. This is something new to me or either I have produced a brain Fart. I don’t know. I can not figure out how to cast one on the same needle and proceed with the next ear flap. Could someone please help me or I will just have to put this project aside and forget it. I really hate to be defeated. I really would appreciate the help from a fellow knitter. Thank you so much. Pam Singer
Hello, I am having a hard time with one of the patterns; the sandals wrap (www.naturallycaron.com/projects/sandals). While joining I can get this far:
Row 4 (one side joined) Join D with slip st in 5th ch of beginning ch-8, ch 8 (counts as dtr, ch 3), slip st in
4th ch of ch-7 space of adjacent motif, ch 3, 3 dtr in same st as beginning, dtr in next 2 sts, slip st in
corresponding 5th dtr of adjacent motif, dtr in next 4 sts of current motif, ch 2, slip st in ch-5 space of
adjacent motif, ch 2, dtr in next 3 sts of current motif, ch 2, slip st in ch-5 space of adjacent motif, ch 2, dtr
in next 5 sts of current motif, slip st in corresponding 5th dtr of adjacent motif, dtr in next st of current motif,
(3 dtr, ch 3, slip st in 4th ch of ch-7 space of adjacent motif (s), ch 3, 3 dtr) in next ch-3 space of current
motif, dtr in next 6 sts, ch 5, dtr in next 3 sts, ch 5, dtr in next 6 sts, (3 dtr, ch 5, 3 dtr) in next st
At that point I only have 3 stichtes left. and the pattern states that I should:
dtr in next 6
sts, ch 5, dtr in next sts, (3 dtr, ch 7, dtr) last ch-3 space. Fasten off.
Before unraveling my work I made another Trangular motif to make sure that I followed the pattern correctly, and I did. Now I don’t know if I did something incorrect or if the pattern needs correcting.
Please Help. Thanks in advance
Hi, I wanted to know if there are any videos on how to make the Avalon Top. It is really nice. I went to other websites with that had the top posted with directions and people was having a really had time with making it, and this was experience people. I really want to make this and I know I could but it would be great if there was a video posted on this item because so many people like it…
Pleas consider if there isn’t one, and also is there any videos on any crochet projects?
Thank You very much
Hi, MarLes. There isn’t a video for Avalon, but I know there have been a number of CAL’s (crochet alongs) on Ravelry for it. Just give it a try – I’m sure you’ll find it not as challenging as it looks.
I’m trying to make the Carmel Jacket by kristin Omdahl and am having problems following the instructions. I am at the “Yoke” section and just don’t understand about how the sleeves are being knitted in. Do you know who I can contact for help?
Thank you
rabuckler28@yahoo.com
We’ve had a couple questions about this, but the pattern is correct as written. You will knit the body up to where you add the sleeves. Knit the sleeves up to where they join the body (working the underarm bind-offs for each per the instructions), then join the front, one sleeve, back, other sleeve and other front. Just work the ribbing as written. When you’ve finished, you’ll sew the bound-off stitches for the underarm. I asked our webmaster to update the pattern to add the seaming part, so, hopefully, that will happen soon.
I was preparing to start the Divi adult hoodie, and started to do the gauge swatch. It is in st st on size 8 needles, but the pattern says to work with 4s and 6s. So is there a typo or do you use 8s and maybe the 4s/6s was for the child size?
I love the pattern ( Cayon Ranch Tunic ) by Ann E. Smith it isin knit. Is the a patter for this in crochet ????
Donna, this one is for knitters. While we occasionally do similar designs in crochet, I feel we need to come up with fresh designs for both knitters and crocheters. But your feedback on the silhouette is great – I love the trapeze look too – but, not to worry, we’ll have some in crochet too. – Cari
Is Caron discontinuing the Naturally Caron line? At Hobby Lobby, I can find a handful of colors (usually only 2 or 3 skiens each) of Spa, and no country. Michael’s used to have a little more of both, but now they have no Spa, and have put what little Country they have left on clearance. Neither place has enough to make any garments. Do I have to worry about not being able to finish my list of “wants”?
The stores are going through their re-setting of their departments, so they will look as if they’re out of some yarns where they are really just moving things around. Michaels is keeping some Country but not all. Hobby Lobby actually expanded their Spa color line, so there shoudl be more, not less. Jo-Ann is keeping both in. So not to worry. You can always buy any Caron yarn at buy.caron.com too.
I found your pattern “Aphrodite Shawl” at http://www.favecrafts.com under the name “Goddess Shawl”. I have not started this project yet, but comments from MANY bloggers about this pattern say there is a mistake or problem with ROW 9 and / or ROW 10.
Could you check this pattern instructions and leave a comment and / or correction here on Caron blogs AND favecrafts blogs under the the “Goddess Shawl” pattern.
Thanks so much in advance for clearing up this problem. Helen
Helen,
We have had this pattern reviewed many times. The most common error people make is to confuse the Treble Cluster and Treble Cluster Shell.
Also note, when a ch-3 space is referred to, it is created in the previous row whenever a treble cluster shell is worked. Notice the definition for treble cluster shells (below), they all include a ch-3. Sometimes a crocheter may accidentally work the treble clusters, not treble cluster SHELLS.
Beg-trCl shell: Beginning treble cluster shell—(Beg-trCl, ch 3, trCl) in indicated stitch.
trCl shell: Treble cluster shell—(trCl, ch 3, trCl) in indicated stitch.
trCl shell-inc: Treble cluster shell increase—([trCl, ch 3] twice, trCl) in indicated stitch.
I am working on the Basel Throw. I have gotten to the third row of the first end section and there are no directions to knit Unit E or F. Please help! I am stuck!
Rikki, I’ve asked our web person to update the pattern, but, in the meantime, here are the 2 missing sections:
TRIANGLE E
Referring to chart, pick up and knit 12 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Knit.
Row 2 (RS): Ssk, k10.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Ssk, k9.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: Ssk, k8.
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: Ssk, k7.
Row 9: Knit.
Row 10: Ssk, k6.
Row 11: Purl.
Row 12: Ssk, k5.
Row 13: Knit.
Row 14: Ssk, k4.
Row 15: Purl.
Row 16: Ssk, k3.
Row 17: Purl.
Row 18: Ssk, k2.
Row 19: Purl.
Row 20: Ssk, k1.
Row 21: Purl.
Row 22: K2tog.
Cut yarn and pull through remaining st.
TRIANGLE F
Referring to chart, knit 12 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Knit.
Row 2 (RS): K10, k2tog.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: K9, k2tog.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: K8, k2tog.
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: K7, k2tog.
Row 9: Knit.
Row 10: K6, k2tog.
Row 11: Purl.
Row 12: K5, k2tog.
Row 13: Knit.
Row 14: K4, k2tog.
Row 15: Purl.
Row 16: K3, k2tog.
Row 17: Purl.
Row 18: K2, k2tog.
Row 19: Purl.
Row 20: K1, k2tog.
Row 21: Purl.
Row 22: K2tog.
Cut yarn and pull through remaining st.
I am knitting the “Bella Blouse” with the Caron Spa and wondered if I need to block it?
Thank you!
I’m sorry, but I’m not familiar with the Bella Blouse. We don’t have a pattern by that name on naturallycaron.com. But Spa usually does need gentle blocking, either with a misting of water and pinning (no heat) or a light steaming on a gament pinned to the schematic shape. Please don’t press with the iron or the work will flatten and will not recover. Send me a photo of your finished garment – would love to see it!
I really need help. I am tring to make a Santa Pillow. It is done on the diagonal,
the bottom half being the face and beard, the top is the Santa’s hat. For some reason I end up with more of a triangle. I can’t make it square.It is done with single crochetand loop stitch, increasing one stitch at each end of row.
Please help
I’m sorry, but we don’t have such a pillow on our site.
I am knitting the v-neck Remington Jacket from your website. I noticed the pattern says to knit two fronts the same. Is this a mistake, or a special trick I don’t know? Please clarify this for me as I’m very puzzled.
Maria Dale
Maria – I can’t locate the pattern you are referring to. Is it called something different?
Sorry – entered email incorrectly mkdale@comcast.net
I have been working on the Totally Turtle pattern for the past 2 weeks and am finally at the assembly stage (new to crochet, so has taken a while) My center tile looks more like a circle so I am having trouble with where to start to assemble the shell. Also, on the picture it looks as though there are stitches behind the side tiles (around the edge of the shell) but I do not see this on the pattern.
Please help!!
Newbie to the scene,
Rebecca
I have a pretty pattern for my 3yr old granddaughter which is in 4 ply baby wool. Can i substitute NaturallyCaron – spa yarn for the 4 ply in the pattern and what size needles should i use.
I live in Australia and so want to be sure of the quantities – size etc.
Love your site & love the yarn, well worth importing.
Pamela, I believe 4-ply (the British 4-ply) is more akin to sport weight (US sport – which, in Brit-speak, I believe is our bulky. Go figure.) yarn. Spa is a bit heavier than sport, but the best way to be sure you get the right weight is to do a gauge swatch.
Thanks for getting in touch and for your kind words.
I am trying to crochet the Zen Jacket by Doris Chan and am having trouble understanding the pattern. I got the FSC foundation stitch. Then does it jump down the page to Row 1 under Jacket Body? If not let me know where to go next. Thanks it is a lovely patter.
The pattern starts with the Jacket Body. Make your neck foundation using 33 fsc for size small and continue on to row 1. Everything above this section of the pattern is just explaining how to do the stitches and lace patterns. I hope you enjoy working on this pattern. It is a great design.
Hi,
On the Apogee Wrap, Row 2 says K6,K5 . Should this say K6,P5?
Also in row 1 since the * is before the slip marker, should you slip them all the way across the row or only after K4 at the beginning.
Do you have a correction section where you can look for corrections as other companies have?
Thank you,
Sue
Sue, you are correct. I will ask our web person to make the change. We do not have a separate page for corrections, but the web person notes at the top of the pattern if it has been changed or updated.
Hi I love this site it gives great inspiration to use all my old wool from years ago kept in my attic. i have a problem, I live in Wales, U.K. and I am not familiar with your yarns i.e. I don;t understand weights.
I was wondering if you could tell me U.S. equivalent to U.K. 4 ply, Double Knit, Chunky & Aran
Many thanks Suzy
Suzy, here is a site where you can get all the conversions. Scroll to the bottom of the page for the yarn conversions.
I want to knit one of your jackets but your terms are slightly different from here in England so can you tell me what:- ssl and yo both mean please. Thanks Ann
Which jacket are you referring to? SSL may be a typo for SSK. YO means yarn over or I think you call it yfwd or yarn forward.
Sorry, yes it is ssk. The jacket is Iquitos cable sweater. I thought yo meant that but cant figure out ssk. Ann.
SSK means slip, slip, knit, it’s a decrease: …Slip one stitch, then slip the next. Insert left needle into the front loops of the slipped stitches and knit them together from this position (through the back loops).
Hope that helps!
I love the arusha jacket and the copenhagen jacket patterns and was wondering if the knitted measurements indicate the finished sweater measurements or the fit to bust size? I’m making the sweater for someone with a 42″ bust and not sure what size to make as this person normally wears an X-large. I’m itching to get started and I want to make sure I purchase enough yarn and that the jacket will fit when I’m done.
The measurements are the actually finished garment measurement. If the person normally wears a size XL, then you should probably make that size so the garment will fit as intended.
Carrie, thank you for your earlier response.I’m just starting to work on the Copenhagen Jacket and have a question on the Long Panel row 2 it says:
Row 2: Ch 2, (counts as hdc throughout), hdc in next st,
skip next 3 sts, BPtr in next st; working in front of BPtr just made hdc in 3 skipped sts,
When doing the first hdc after the BPtr, do you work the skipped stitch right next to the BPtr first or do you start to work the skipped stitch closest to the hdc near the edge?
You would work in the skipped stitch farthest to the right first.
Hi, I’m also having trouble with the Aqua Blue Scarf design. In row 25, there’s supposed to be 10 sc, 4 FPdc, a front cross, another 4 FPdc, and then 10 sc for the last stitches. The total comes out to be 20 sc and 12 FPdc, but there’s only 30 stitches from the last row. So I don’t know what I’m supposed to do. I’m having the most trouble with the front cross and the back cross because you noted in your Special Terms, ” skip next 2 FPdc, and FPdc around next 2 FPdc, working in front of the FPdc made, FPdc around first skipped FPdc, Fpdc around 2nd skipped FPdc” and I don’t know how to do that without messing up the order of the row and the number of stitches.
This is a challenging pattern that has to be followed exactly as written.
In Row 25 (similarly in Rows 27 and 29), the stitch count does increase. Up to Row 25, there have been 30 sts, but in Row 25 the st count is increased by 2 (to 32 total sts). The increase is desired, because the Front Cross causes the fabric to pull in a little, the extra sts help keep the width even. To accomplish the increase, you begin by working sc in each of the first 10 sc, then you work post sts and a front cross over the 12 post sts in the previous post st row, and end by working sc in each of the last 10 sc (total of 10 + 12 + 10 = 32 sts). The last sc of the first 10 sc is kind of worked “behind” the first of the following post sts. When working the first post sts following the 10 sc, begin by working around the very first post st in the previous post st row (don’t skip any of the post sts), this may require angling the hook a little to reach the first post st. Similarly, when working the final 10 sc, begin in the 10th to the last sc and this may require angling the hook a little to reach the 10th to the last sc (the 10th to the last sc is actually “behind” the last post st worked).
Rows 27 and 29 are similar, they both increase the stitch count (to compensate for the “pull in” effect of the Front Cross and Back Cross), by working an sc “behind” the first and last of the post sts worked.
The st count returns to 30 sts when Row 35 is worked. Notice that Row 35 doesn’t have any Front or Back Crosses, so doesn’t need extra sts to compensate for the “pull in”.
I realized I am 1 skein short of finishing a sweater for Xmas. I need SPA – Color 0006 Berry Frappe. Is there any way I can purchase 1 skein, charge it & have it mailed to me ASAP. Thanks, Loretta Stephens
Yes, you can buy any Caron yarn at buy.caron.com.
Go to where it says YOKE and you begin working the pattern up with FIRST MOTIF.
If you’re using SPA yarn, you’ll need 8 skeins.
I am getting ready to make the Adelaide Circle Vest, but I decided to use your Simply Soft–spring brook instead of Country because I liked the color better. Can these yarns be substituted for one another? I’ve made several gauge swatches, and they’re correct for the width but too short for the height. I usually crochet right on gauge, and I have several patterns using worsted weight yarn that say my gauge of 12sc and 16rows=4 in. is correct for a size K hook. Your pattern says 12sc and 12 rows= 4 in. and 12ldc and 7rows=4 in. I tried swatches with both stitches, and I can’t get them to come out right. I’d really like to make this vest, but I’m leery of doing it when my gauge is off.
I went ahead and started the Adelaide Circle Vest thinking that I would just give it a shot and see what happened. My gauge is almost exactly what the pattern says it should be. I guess if you’re going to make a circular pattern, you need to make a circular gauge swatch! Live and learn. =-)
Hi, I’m making the Cincinnati Toddler Pullover by Melissa Matthay (Country yarn) and don’t know how to do the “4 st cable CO (row 14). I don’t see where it’s described in the pattern. Thanks!
Hello Cari,
I am making the Tokyo Jacket (crochet) and I believe the instructions for the lace portion of the instructions beginning with row one omit sizes larger than a size small. Do you have corrections for a size Medium to account for a foundation chain of 123 stitches vs. 121? I suspect perhaps just skip the first 5 stitches and the same for the last group of stitches at the end of the row. Thanks so much!
Susan
Sorry for the delay, Susan, but I wanted to get you a reply that I knew was correct. We had send the info for the change to Caron’s web person, but it doesn’t seem to have been done. Our apologies. Here’s from our tech editor for advanced crochet projects:
The customer who wrote on the blog is correct, the info for the larger sizes is missing from lace section. Reviewing old files and communication with the designer, I can see that there was some debate about what should be done here, and the result/decision doesn’t seem to have made it to the final version. Below is my best/quickest/shortest solution to the problem. This solution gradually decreases in the first 3 rows of lace section to remove the few extra sts in the larger sizes, so that the lace pattern can then be worked the same for all sizes after row 3.
Row 1: With right side of piece facing, join yarn with slip st in first st of unworked side of foundation row (at lower back corner); ch 3 (counts as first dc), working into 3 strands of foundation sts (to form a strong shoulder edge), dc in next 0 (1, 0, 1, 0) sts, [dc2tog] 0 (0, 1, 1, 2) time(s), , *sk next 4 sts, fan in next st, sk next 4 sts, dc in next st; repeat from * across, [dc2tog] 0 (0, 1, 1, 2) times(s), dc in last 0 (1, 0, 1, 0) sts, turn—12 fans.
Row 2 (WS): Slip st in each trtr, ch-sp, and dc across, turn—169 (171, 171, 173, 173) slip sts.
Row 3: Ch 7 (counts as trtr, ch1), [(trtr, ch 1) twice, trtr] in first st, sk next 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts, *sc in next st (above 4th trtr of fan), sk next 6 sts, fan in next st (above dc), sk next 6 sts; repeat from * across to last fan, sc in st above last fan, [(trtr, ch 1) 3 times, trtr] in last slip st; turn. Note: Henceforth the 4th tr of a fan will be referred to as the ‘top of fan.’
Hope this helps. Cari
Cari,
Thanks so much, I appreciate the information!
Susan
Hi again,
I’ve tried the 4 st cable CO a couple of different ways after looking it up online with no luck. I’m also having problems with the instructions for rows 15 and 16 for the yoke. It says to work back and forth from the neck opening (those CO stitches), but then also says to purl both rows. Now I’m totally confused. I’m so close to finishing this sweater and love it so far. Your help would be deeply appreciated.
Sorry for the delay, Kris. A cable cast-on is just a single-tail CO: knit into the front of the stitch but leave the lp on the LH ndl. Rep but knit the next stitch between the first and second sts, then put it on the LH ndl. Do this until you have 4 new sts, then just turn the work and follow the pattern. It’s just casting on 4 sts in the middle of the work, for the neck placket opening. Hope this helps.
Cari, I did get the cable cast on, but why does the pattern call for 2 rows of purl stitch, Rows 15 and 16? How can I do that if I’m working it back and forth for the neck opening? I thought Row 16 would be a knit row, but that throws all the remaining pattern off. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong.
I see what you mean now. It appears that the right side and wrong side rows have been switched after row 15. The even numbered rows should be the RS and odd numbered rows the WS. I would disregard whether it says K or P around and stick to st st, just following where you have to decrease and work the colors. I’ll be sure the pattern is updated. Sorry for the error. – Cari
It appears that ever since CrochetPatternCentral started showing your patterns – particularly under NaturallyCaron.com – that I no longer see any new patterns. I have to view your new patterns via CrochetPatternCentral.com
Why is this? And, am I the only one having that problem, or is everyone having the same problem?
On the Country label, the gauge is listed as 16 st x 22 rows = 4″ x 4″. Is this just for knitting, or for crocheting as well. Can you please clarify what the yarn gauge is when crocheting? Thank you.
In the newsletter sent out today with the pic of the Zaria Jacket….is it just me or can anyone SEE the pic of the jacket???? It’s like a black jacket with a black background. All I can see is the girls face and hands!!
I would like to use the Spa line to make a baby blanket but you don’t have the washing instructions of the yarn. Can it be put in the dryer as well?
Greetings:
I am making the Antiqua Throw using peacock, green sheen and a creamy white color — all by NaturallyCaron. I’m concerned that the darker color will bleed into the lighter ones after the throw is washed. Can you provide any special washing tips? In addition, the throw seems kind of small. I know I will have to block it, but I didn’t realize I would have to do it by twice as much as the finished size. Does that sound right? I’ve done only close to a third of the project.
I’m doing the sophisticated baby hippie girl sweater and the directions put the accent colors on the back yoke. Were these yokes labeled wrong or should the accent colors be on the smaller yoke, the one labeled front?
I would like to know if anyone has made the Adelaide Circle Vest. I have been trying to make and am having diffecult with.
Hi there,
I love Naturally Caron Country yarn and it has become my new “go-to” choice for many projects because of its softness and rich coloring…I went to my local JoAnn Fabrics store today to pick up more yarn and was dismayed (and slightly distraught) to find that they only had two shades left (Deep Taupe and Black) AND both colors were on clearance! Has Naturally Caron Country been discontinued? If so, what is a similar Caron product (in weight, fiber content, and hook size) that I may find comparable to use for my projects? ~ Sherry
Naturally Caron country has NOT been discontinued. You should still be able to find it in stores and on our online shop!
Glad to hear that, because I LOVE the spa yarn and was quite upset to see none of it in Joanns or Michaels this evening =(
THANK YOU!!!! You have made my day!
Could anyone tell me what pm means in the instructions of Divi Toddler Hoodie?
pm usually means “place marker”, meaning place your stitch marker on your needle at that point.
I too was wondering about the continued availability of Naturally Caron. I have 5 each of JoAnn’s, Michael’s and Hobby Lobby in my area, and NONE of them have any Spa or Country on the shelves anymore! I was asked to make something for someone and had to order on-line. It’s nice I could get it, but I was unable to use any of my 40% off coupons, and now will have to pass on the extra costs.
Can you Please help me with Pattern Cedar Falls Throw!! I am having difficulty understanding directions. I’ve completed 24 rows –then directions says to Repeat Rows 10-24 BUT there is A Stitch Pattern & the regular pattern (each have 1-24 rows) Where do I begin the 10-24 rows? Could it possibly mean 1 thru 24 rows repeated? ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. Thank You!!
Hi Marion –
So sorry for the delay. If you’re still having trouble, please contact inquire@caron.com and the pattern support folks should be able to help you out. Thanks!
Hi,
I’ve had an interesting experience with Caron Country and I’m wondering if anyone else has had this issue. I just completed a beautiful crocheted pencil skirt designed by “The Crochet Dude” in the claret color. I was so excited when I finished it. As I was examining my finished work, I noticed a couple of loose, frayed ends at the bottom edge of the skirt. So I tied them together and used my crochet hook to weave the ends into the pattern. A few inches away, I noticed another two loose, frayed ends. This was suspicious. If it was an area where I finished one skein and started another, it wouldn’t be so close to the other area. Then I saw another area smack dab in the middle of the skirt. This one had started unraveling, leaving a small hole in the pattern. As I examined the skirt more closely, I noticed this had happened in at least four areas on the skirt that I could see, but it’s possible that there are a few more areas where the fraying may be starting. Has anyone else had this experience? Could it be because the yarn was used to create a fitted skirt that must endure more stress than a hat, for example, as it hugs and moves with my body? I can repair the areas I’ve noticed, but I’m nervous about wearing my skirt out of my house for fear that I will come home in nothing more than a pile of yarn at the end of the day. Any thoughts and ideas would be welcome. Thanks.
Mikel
Hi Mikel,
The fraying you’re describing is not something we hear about often. Did you notice any flaws in the yarn as you crocheted the skirt? I wouldn’t worry too much, this shouldn’t be a widespread issue. If it is, please let us know and we’ll have our product support department get involved.
I’m working on the Cincinnati Toddler Pullover and am on my third time trying to get the yoke right. The first time I took it out was my problem with needle size, but the second time I realized that the yoke looked nothing like the pictures from the point of the divide up. Then I found that the directions I had found on the web (Michaels.com) were not the same for this pattern as the one shown on the Caron site. So I redid it with the Caron directions, but it still does not look like the pictures because of rows 21 and 22 where the main color is alternated with the A color. And the last row that leads into the ribbed neck says to do the four border stitches in A then use the main color ribbing around to the other four border stitches also done in A Do you expect one to break the A yarn and pick it up again all the way around the neck? Then how are you to secure the border stitches to the edge of the sweater? Thanks for any help you can give me.
Catherine
Hi Catherine,
I sent your question on to our pattern support department. They should get back to you soon via email. Thanks!
I Live in New Zealand and would like to buy Caron Country yarn but I cannot seem to find a place that will post this to New Zealand. Can anybody help me with advice?
Alet
I’m crocheting the Bellflower Infinity Scarf and for the life of me no matter how I count it out I am left with 2 chains @ the end of the first row. I get four patterns and after the last (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) I’m left with 2 chains. What am I doing wrong? Essentially what should the last stitch on the 1st row be?
The first time I attempted this I dc in the last chain and then turned. It looked nice and neat but then the 2nd row was off.
Hi Lonnie,
I sent your question on to our pattern support department. They should be getting back to you via email shortly. Thanks!
Hi! I was walking around in Hobby Lobby one day (about 4 years ago now) when I stumbled upon a print of the Sunscape Throw and I fell in love! It inspired me to learn how to crochet and from there I decided to teach myself. I’ve made a couple of baby blankets, scarves and even a Kindle cover but i’ve finally decided to take on the project that started it all! I ordered how many skeins in spa the pattern said would be necessary last summer right before I left for a big trip (I went to Ireland for a few months) and unfortunately the yarn wouldn’t fit in my bag. However, I picked it up again the other day (I’d completed one square already but I decided it was time to really hunker down and get to work.) In my tiredness, I was working on a square and I got to the last round (7) and went at it. That’s when I set it down next to my first completed square and realized that somehow in my tiredness, I had crocheted all the way around using treble crochet instead of half double crochet. I have no idea how I even did that, however, I really like the look of it. My question is: How much more yarn should I buy in each color so I can complete the project using treble crochets in round 7 versus the half double crochet? I know there’s no way to get the same dye lots but I don’t think that will be too big of a deal with this particular design. Thank you so much for any input you can offer!
Hi Kelsey,
It is hard to estimate, but if you’re only modifying one row in the motif, the extra yarn needed is marginal. I’d allow for some extra, but you shouldn’t need multiple balls extra of each color. Good luck!
I am not seeing caron country available online. Has it been discontinued.
Hi Jona – It’s not discontinued at this time. I’m looking into getting it back on the shop.
I wish caron would add red to the color palettes of Spa and/or Joy!, even it it’s a limited edition tie-in for National Heart Month. I’ve been doing the Debbie Macomber MRS MIRACLE scarf with Spa, and it’s turned out wonderfully. The Spa colors Rose Bisque and Rosalinda are perfect for Breast Cancer Month knitting, but the group I belong to is doing a charity knitting basket for a Heart Month fundraiser in May, and I’d love to do a MIRACLE scarf for it in red. Will you at least consider it, even if it’s limited-edition?
I can’t find country anywhere! Its on clearance and limited colors on some websites. You say its not discontinued but the rarity of it tells a different story. It is elusive. Is there a problem with production? Officially discontinued or not I’m really frustrated that its so hard to find.
Why are Spa and Joy being discontinued?
I am EXTREMELY disappointed that the Caron country and spa collections are being discontinued. In the past, I have purchased these yarns (at HobbyLobby, Michaels, Joanns and AC Moore) to use for a scarf pattern that I frequently knit to give as gifts – or to keep for myself. The softness and sheen of these yarns makes it great for scarves. I can’t seem to find any other yarn that works as well for this pattern – even among more expensive “designer” yarns. Very disappointed in Caron.
I just found out Spa is being discontinued — I’m really bummed as it’s one of my favorite yarns! Why is it being discontinued?
I too am curious why the natruallycaron.com line has been discontinued. These were such lovely yarns. Does Caron have and replacement yarns in the works that are blended with natural fibers?