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	<title>Comments on: About NaturallyCaron.com</title>
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	<link>http://blog.naturallycaron.com</link>
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		<title>By: susan d.</title>
		<link>http://blog.naturallycaron.com/about/#comment-3654</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[susan d.]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 04:01:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-3654</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Cari,

Thanks so much, I appreciate the information!

Susan]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cari,</p>
<p>Thanks so much, I appreciate the information!</p>
<p>Susan</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Cari</title>
		<link>http://blog.naturallycaron.com/about/#comment-3648</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Cari]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2012 17:20:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-3648</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I see what you mean now.  It appears that the right side and wrong side rows have been switched after row 15.  The even numbered rows should be the RS and odd numbered rows the WS.  I would disregard whether it says K or P around and stick to st st, just following where you have to decrease and work the colors.  I&#039;ll be sure the pattern is updated.  Sorry for the error.  - Cari]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I see what you mean now.  It appears that the right side and wrong side rows have been switched after row 15.  The even numbered rows should be the RS and odd numbered rows the WS.  I would disregard whether it says K or P around and stick to st st, just following where you have to decrease and work the colors.  I&#8217;ll be sure the pattern is updated.  Sorry for the error.  &#8211; Cari</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Cari</title>
		<link>http://blog.naturallycaron.com/about/#comment-3647</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Cari]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2012 16:36:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-3647</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Sorry for the delay, Susan, but I wanted to get you a reply that I knew was correct.  We had send the info for the change to Caron&#039;s web person, but it doesn&#039;t seem to have been done.  Our apologies.  Here&#039;s from our tech editor for advanced crochet projects:  

The customer who wrote on the blog is correct, the info for the larger sizes is missing from lace section. Reviewing old files and communication with the designer, I can see that there was some debate about what should be done here, and the result/decision doesn’t seem to have made it to the final version.  Below is my best/quickest/shortest solution to the problem. This solution gradually decreases in the first 3 rows of lace section to remove the few extra sts in the larger sizes, so that the lace pattern can then be worked the same for all sizes after row 3.

Row 1: With right side of piece facing, join yarn with slip st in first st of unworked side of foundation row (at lower back corner); ch 3 (counts as first dc), working into 3 strands of foundation sts (to form a strong shoulder edge), dc in next 0 (1, 0, 1, 0) sts, [dc2tog] 0 (0, 1, 1, 2) time(s), , *sk next 4 sts, fan in next st, sk next 4 sts, dc in next st; repeat from * across, [dc2tog] 0 (0, 1, 1, 2) times(s), dc in last 0 (1, 0, 1, 0) sts, turn—12 fans.
Row 2 (WS): Slip st in each trtr, ch-sp, and dc across, turn—169 (171, 171, 173, 173) slip sts.
Row 3: Ch 7 (counts as trtr, ch1), [(trtr, ch 1) twice, trtr] in first st, sk next 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts, *sc in next st (above 4th trtr of fan), sk next 6 sts, fan in next st (above dc), sk next 6 sts; repeat from * across to last fan, sc in st above last fan, [(trtr, ch 1) 3 times, trtr] in last slip st; turn. Note: Henceforth the 4th tr of a fan will be referred to as the &#039;top of fan.&#039;

Hope this helps.  Cari]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry for the delay, Susan, but I wanted to get you a reply that I knew was correct.  We had send the info for the change to Caron&#8217;s web person, but it doesn&#8217;t seem to have been done.  Our apologies.  Here&#8217;s from our tech editor for advanced crochet projects:  </p>
<p>The customer who wrote on the blog is correct, the info for the larger sizes is missing from lace section. Reviewing old files and communication with the designer, I can see that there was some debate about what should be done here, and the result/decision doesn’t seem to have made it to the final version.  Below is my best/quickest/shortest solution to the problem. This solution gradually decreases in the first 3 rows of lace section to remove the few extra sts in the larger sizes, so that the lace pattern can then be worked the same for all sizes after row 3.</p>
<p>Row 1: With right side of piece facing, join yarn with slip st in first st of unworked side of foundation row (at lower back corner); ch 3 (counts as first dc), working into 3 strands of foundation sts (to form a strong shoulder edge), dc in next 0 (1, 0, 1, 0) sts, [dc2tog] 0 (0, 1, 1, 2) time(s), , *sk next 4 sts, fan in next st, sk next 4 sts, dc in next st; repeat from * across, [dc2tog] 0 (0, 1, 1, 2) times(s), dc in last 0 (1, 0, 1, 0) sts, turn—12 fans.<br />
Row 2 (WS): Slip st in each trtr, ch-sp, and dc across, turn—169 (171, 171, 173, 173) slip sts.<br />
Row 3: Ch 7 (counts as trtr, ch1), [(trtr, ch 1) twice, trtr] in first st, sk next 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts, *sc in next st (above 4th trtr of fan), sk next 6 sts, fan in next st (above dc), sk next 6 sts; repeat from * across to last fan, sc in st above last fan, [(trtr, ch 1) 3 times, trtr] in last slip st; turn. Note: Henceforth the 4th tr of a fan will be referred to as the &#8216;top of fan.&#8217;</p>
<p>Hope this helps.  Cari</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Kris</title>
		<link>http://blog.naturallycaron.com/about/#comment-3627</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Kris]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Feb 2012 03:09:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-3627</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Cari, I did get the cable cast on, but why does the pattern call for 2 rows of purl stitch, Rows 15 and 16?  How can I do that if I&#039;m working it back and forth for the neck opening?  I thought Row 16 would be a knit row, but that throws all the remaining pattern off.  I don&#039;t know what I&#039;m doing wrong.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cari, I did get the cable cast on, but why does the pattern call for 2 rows of purl stitch, Rows 15 and 16?  How can I do that if I&#8217;m working it back and forth for the neck opening?  I thought Row 16 would be a knit row, but that throws all the remaining pattern off.  I don&#8217;t know what I&#8217;m doing wrong.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Cari</title>
		<link>http://blog.naturallycaron.com/about/#comment-3623</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Cari]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 03 Feb 2012 22:03:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-3623</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Sorry for the delay, Kris.  A cable cast-on is just a single-tail CO:  knit into the front of the stitch but leave the lp on the LH ndl.  Rep but knit the next stitch between the first and second sts, then put it on the LH ndl.  Do this until you have 4 new sts, then just turn the work and follow the pattern.  It&#039;s just casting on 4 sts in the middle of the work, for the neck placket opening.  Hope this helps.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry for the delay, Kris.  A cable cast-on is just a single-tail CO:  knit into the front of the stitch but leave the lp on the LH ndl.  Rep but knit the next stitch between the first and second sts, then put it on the LH ndl.  Do this until you have 4 new sts, then just turn the work and follow the pattern.  It&#8217;s just casting on 4 sts in the middle of the work, for the neck placket opening.  Hope this helps.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Kris</title>
		<link>http://blog.naturallycaron.com/about/#comment-3595</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Kris]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Feb 2012 07:54:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-3595</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi again,
I&#039;ve tried the 4 st cable CO a couple of different ways after looking it up online with no luck.   I&#039;m also having problems with the instructions for rows 15 and 16 for the yoke.  It says to work back and forth from the neck opening (those CO stitches), but then also says to purl both rows.  Now I&#039;m totally confused.  I&#039;m so close to finishing this sweater and love it so far.  Your help would be deeply appreciated.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi again,<br />
I&#8217;ve tried the 4 st cable CO a couple of different ways after looking it up online with no luck.   I&#8217;m also having problems with the instructions for rows 15 and 16 for the yoke.  It says to work back and forth from the neck opening (those CO stitches), but then also says to purl both rows.  Now I&#8217;m totally confused.  I&#8217;m so close to finishing this sweater and love it so far.  Your help would be deeply appreciated.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: susan d.</title>
		<link>http://blog.naturallycaron.com/about/#comment-3593</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[susan d.]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Feb 2012 00:51:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-3593</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello Cari,

I am making the Tokyo Jacket (crochet) and I believe the instructions for the lace portion of the instructions beginning with row one omit sizes larger than a size small. Do you have corrections for a size Medium to account for a foundation chain of 123 stitches vs. 121? I suspect perhaps just skip the first 5 stitches and the same for the last group of stitches at the end of the row. Thanks so much!

Susan]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello Cari,</p>
<p>I am making the Tokyo Jacket (crochet) and I believe the instructions for the lace portion of the instructions beginning with row one omit sizes larger than a size small. Do you have corrections for a size Medium to account for a foundation chain of 123 stitches vs. 121? I suspect perhaps just skip the first 5 stitches and the same for the last group of stitches at the end of the row. Thanks so much!</p>
<p>Susan</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Kris</title>
		<link>http://blog.naturallycaron.com/about/#comment-3588</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Kris]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 Jan 2012 02:47:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-3588</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi, I&#039;m making the Cincinnati Toddler Pullover by Melissa Matthay (Country yarn) and don&#039;t know how to do the &quot;4 st cable CO (row 14).  I don&#039;t see where it&#039;s described in the pattern.  Thanks!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, I&#8217;m making the Cincinnati Toddler Pullover by Melissa Matthay (Country yarn) and don&#8217;t know how to do the &#8220;4 st cable CO (row 14).  I don&#8217;t see where it&#8217;s described in the pattern.  Thanks!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jami</title>
		<link>http://blog.naturallycaron.com/about/#comment-3572</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jami]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 04:04:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-3572</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I went ahead and started the Adelaide Circle Vest thinking that I would just give it a shot and see what happened.  My gauge is almost exactly what the pattern says it should be. I guess if you&#039;re going to make a circular pattern, you need to make a circular gauge swatch! Live and learn. =-)]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I went ahead and started the Adelaide Circle Vest thinking that I would just give it a shot and see what happened.  My gauge is almost exactly what the pattern says it should be. I guess if you&#8217;re going to make a circular pattern, you need to make a circular gauge swatch! Live and learn. =-)</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jami</title>
		<link>http://blog.naturallycaron.com/about/#comment-3568</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jami]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Jan 2012 05:12:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-3568</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I am getting ready to make the Adelaide Circle Vest, but I decided to use your Simply Soft--spring brook instead of Country because I liked the color better. Can these yarns be substituted for one another?  I&#039;ve made several gauge swatches, and they&#039;re correct for the width but too short for the height.  I usually crochet right on gauge, and I have several patterns using worsted weight yarn that say my gauge of 12sc and 16rows=4 in. is correct for a size K hook.  Your pattern says 12sc and 12 rows= 4 in. and 12ldc and 7rows=4 in. I tried swatches with both stitches, and I can&#039;t get them to come out right. I&#039;d really like to make this vest, but I&#039;m leery of doing it when my gauge is off.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am getting ready to make the Adelaide Circle Vest, but I decided to use your Simply Soft&#8211;spring brook instead of Country because I liked the color better. Can these yarns be substituted for one another?  I&#8217;ve made several gauge swatches, and they&#8217;re correct for the width but too short for the height.  I usually crochet right on gauge, and I have several patterns using worsted weight yarn that say my gauge of 12sc and 16rows=4 in. is correct for a size K hook.  Your pattern says 12sc and 12 rows= 4 in. and 12ldc and 7rows=4 in. I tried swatches with both stitches, and I can&#8217;t get them to come out right. I&#8217;d really like to make this vest, but I&#8217;m leery of doing it when my gauge is off.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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